Myco.Run: Alternative Materials and Processes in Footwear Production

Research & Problem Definition

A standard running shoe relies on over 12 different materials — EVA foam, TPU overlays, synthetic mesh, rubber outsoles, and industrial adhesives. This complex material mix creates significant challenges: fossil fuel dependency, manufacturing waste, and near-impossible recycling at end-of-life.

Material Exploration

Understanding Mycelium

Mycelium, the root structure of fungi, forms dense, fibrous networks capable of replacing leather, foam, and composite materials. Companies like Ecovative and MycoWorks have demonstrated mycelium's viability in packaging and fashion, but its application in high-performance footwear remains largely unexplored.

I conducted material experiments to understand mycelium's growth behavior, structural properties, and integration potential with additive manufacturing. Key challenges included contamination control, achieving consistent density, and directional growth management.

Key Insight: By strategically inoculating specific zones within a parametric lattice mold, mycelium density can be controlled, creating softer cushioning in the heel and firmer support in the midfoot.

Microscopic view of mycelium fiber structure

First "air" mycelium growing tests

Mycelium grew through plastic container and is fixed

Shore-density measurements of "air"-grown mycelium in comparison to regular midsole foam

Through iterative testing, I developed a growth protocol where:

• Mycelium substrate fills an additively manufactured lattice mold
• Grid spacing determines material density (wide = dense cushioning, narrow = flexible zones)
• Growth occurs over 7–10 days at controlled temperature and humidity
• The material naturally bonds to textile and bamboo components without adhesives

Concept Development

From Research to Form

Early design iterations explored three conceptual directions:

Caged — An exoskeleton filled with mycelium substrate
Bonded — Laced components grown together through mycelium integration
Grown — A holistic approach where upper and sole develop as one organism

The final concept Myco.Run synthesizes these explorations into a user-grown system.

Caged moodboard and structural sketch

Caged rendering

Caged concept sketches and CAD design

First prototype of "Caged" concept

First prototype detail of "Caged" concept

First prototype of "Caged" concept

First prototype of "Caged" concept

Bonded: Moodboard and structural sketch

Bonded first concept sketches

Bonded first renderings

Bonded first renderings

Grown moodboard and structural sketch

Grown first sketches and construction concept

The final concept — Myco.Run — synthesizes these explorations into a user-grown system.

Mycorun: First process prototype before inoculation

Mycorun: First process prototype in growing phase

Automated Personalization

The production process begins not in a factory, but with the user:

Gait analysis of a heel striking runner

The process in a nut-shell

Final Design

User Journey